Seven Colours: A Taste of Home, A Memory of Love

In every spoonful, a story. In every color, a memory. Seven Colours is the soul of togetherness.

My home country like many other countries, is a land of diverse cultures and tribes, 12 official languages, 65 million people, which adds to the cultural nuances, and we hold these nuances and traditions close to our hearts. Despite our many differences, be it ethnicity, tribe, religion there is one thing we all look forward to every December, ‘Seven Colours.’ My grandmother recalls how, before democracy, December was a precious time because it marked the return of many Black South Africans who worked in the cities far from their homelands. It was a time of reunion and celebration, centred around an incredible feast. Today, while circumstances have changed, the significance of December is carried from generation to generation. Whether you are close to family or distant, have a place to call home or not, from a household with a signature dish or not, we all anticipate the same meal, ‘Seven Colours.’

December falls during South Africa’s summer season, it is peak season for weddings, family reunions and traditional ceremonies. Regardless of the occasion, one thing is a non-negotiable, ‘Seven Colours.’ The Seven colours dish forms part of the anticipation of summer, it is the centrepiece of the every black-gathering. The meal is a mix of meats, vegetables and starches, each contributing to the dish’s signature variety. The staple elements of the dish is beetroot, cabbage, chakalaka, pumpkin, and spinach. The meats range from braaied meat (barbecued) or stewed beef to traditional tripe (Mogodu/Ulusu/Mala/). The starches typically consist of pap (porridge made from maize-meal), Samp (isitambu/Umngqusho), Rice, or Dombolo (steamed bread). The meal is usually presented buffet-style, allowing guests to curate their plates to their liking.

The preparation of Seven Colours is a labor of love, typically starting the day before and involving multiple family members. The process begins with preparing the vegetables, which are present in every element of this dish.Then we prepare the stews as they take the longest. Preparing Mogodu is a meticulous process, the tripe and intestines have to be washed at least three times, soaked overnight in warm water with lemon or vinegar, and then slow-cooked for four to five hours with a blend of spices, minced garlic, ginger, bay leaves, and beef stock. Once tender, onions, bell peppers, grated tomatoes, and herbs are added to the stew, followed by a final simmer to develop the rich, flavourful taste. Traditionally, Mogodu is best cooked on a three-legged, cast-iron pot over an open fire, to enhance the flavour.

The beef stew includes cutting chuck steak into various chunks, seasoning it in various spices, then leaving it over night to marinate. The next day you being by searing the chunks on the outside but do not cook them through, then placing to the side. Then add the diced onions, diced bell peppers, minced garlic, minced ginger, various spices, grated tomatoes and allow to sauté for a few minutes. Then add the seared chuck pieces, beef stock and water, and slow cook for an hour, add the potatoes and carrots 45 minutes before the meat is fully tender. 

No Seven Colours meal is complete without its Staple sides, which give the dish its name. The beetroot is peeled and diced, then combined with diced onions, a pinch of salt, a pinch of garlic powder, and the South African staple Mrs. Ball’s Chutney, which creates a sweet and tangy side dish. Cabbage is another element, sautéed with onions, garlic, bay leaves, coriander, paprika, chili flakes, turmeric, cayenne pepper, and beef stock, then left to simmer until tender.

One of the crown jewels of Seven Colours is ‘Chakalaka’, a spicy and flavourful relish made with sautéed onions, chili peppers, grated carrots, baked beans, garlic, curry powder, paprika, turmeric, chili flakes, oregano, and mixed herbs. You can not call it a ‘Seven Colours’ meal if chakalaka is missing, tensions will rise, it is that important to the dish.

Spinach is another element, prepared differently depending on family preferences. Some prefer, creamy spinach, while others mix it with carrots or potatoes. The meal is usually completed with either a potato salad or a green salad, depending on the host’s preference.

Starches, which brings the meal together and also singles to many your culture or tribe. Pap, for instance is enjoyed by all in South Africa but is usually a staple in Swati and Zulu gatherings. It is simple to prepare for a few people, but requires strength to mix properly, especially when cooking for a large group, which is why, when it is a large gathering, it’s usually left to the men to make. Boiling water is poured into a large cast-iron pot, with salt to taste, maize meal is then added slowly while stirring with a whisk to prevent lumps, and then it is left to simmer on low heat. You can add any extras to customize it to your liking, but I find it profane to add anything but salt. 

Another beloved staple is ‘Dombolo,’ which is a soft and fluffy steamed bread. The dough is prepared by mixing flour, yeast, sugar, and warm water, allowing it to rise, then steaming it separately or within a stew, absorbing all the flavourful juices, or on the side.

Samp, or often times, Samp and beans, also requires one to soak the Samp and beans in cold water overnight. Once soaked, drain the Samp and beans and rinse the starch out like you would with rice. Bring water to a boil in a pot and add a pinch of salt, and then the Samp and beans. Boil for an hour or more, drain the water, add butter, milk, and cream of mushroom soup, and let it simmer over low heat for a few minutes.

Finally, the rice or yellow rice is prepared by rinsing it until the water is clear. Then, add a small amount of olive oil to a hot pot, then add minced onion, minced garlic, peas, turmeric, and salt. Let it sauté for a minute, then add the rice, chicken stock, and water, cover the pot, and let it simmer until the water evaporates.

Beyond the ingredients and flavours, Seven Colours showcases the diversity of South Africa. Every cultural group may have its variations, but at its core, the meal is a representation of the Rainbow Nation I call home. Whether attending a wedding, a funeral, or a family gathering, seeing a Seven Colours spread means one thing: love, family, and heritage.

Even now, as I write this, I can feel the anticipation building for December. The laughter in the kitchen, the clatter of pots, the unmistakable aroma of stews and grilled meat, the gossip, fights, and laughter that are the hidden secret ingredient that makes the meal so good, and the Styrofoam plates filled with food that is guaranteed to put us to sleep at a moment’s notice. 

Seven Colours is the physical representation of our togetherness and the comfort that it brings. The sheer quantity of food makes it nearly impossible to prepare for a small group, bringing forward the philosophy of ‘Ubuntu’ I am because you are.’ The meal is a thank you to our ancestors, God, and each other, and we are blessed enough to meet again and break bread because every day isn’t promised. It is a meal that makes the long journey home, the countless family errands, and even the unavoidable family drama all worthwhile. Give me Seven Colours with a side of family drama any day, cause I cherish every one of those dishes for all the days I don’t have it.